So, you’ve seen all these beautiful and full kitchen gardens and you wish you could have one of your own. Trust me, there’s nothing like growing and enjoying your own fruits and vegetables.
First things first, let’s talk garden layout. Planning your kitchen garden is like arranging a symphony. You want to ensure each plant gets exactly what it needs to flourish. So let’s dive into it.
Starting out you may only want to plant things you know you will eat and if it’s successful than maybe branch out to other things that you can give to friends and family. We started mostly everything as seed inside the house in large trays; the strawberries and few of our trailing plants we planted straight into the beds.
This time of year the temperature in our little corner of the world has a tendency to fluctuate from 60*- 78* during the day and can get down to 35* sometimes at night. When you add in that there may be a couple frosty nights, we don’t see any little sprouts making it in the beginning which is why we like to start them inside. It gives them a fighting chance to get stronger before we place them outside in the beds. I mean I’m a grown sprout and I even need something wrapped around me on those chilly nights while walking the dogs.
PLACEMENT
When it comes to placement one of the key principles here is crop rotation. Just like you don’t want to eat lasagna every night (as tempting as it may be hello lasagna lover over here), your plants don’t want to be in the same spot year after year. Rotating your crops helps prevent soil depletion and keeps pests and diseases at bay. So, divide your garden into sections and rotate your crops each season–your plants will thank you for it!
When laying out your garden, consider the height and spread of each plant. You don’t want to overshadow your sun-loving veggies with towering giants, also mix and match your plants to create a garden that thrives together.
Let’s talk about the power of planting under the overhang, some veggies are like nature’s own shady characters providing shelter and protection for their sun shy companions. Take tall crops like corn or trellised beans–they cast a cool shadow perfect for delicate greens like lettuce or spinach. It’s like creating a mini microclimate right in you garden bed!
But it’s not just about shade–some plants are downright chummy with each other when planted side by side. For example marigolds alongside your tomatoes not only adds a pop of color but also helps deter pests with their natural insect-repelling properties. And don’t forget the dynamic duo of carrots and onions–they make a great team, with onions deterring carrot flies while carrots help suppress weeds around their oniony buddies.
sunlight
Let’s shed some light on sunlight in the garden! Sunlight is like fuel for plants-it’s essential for photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert light energy into chemical energy (pretty much it makes them grow big and strong), fueling their growth and development. Different plants have varying characteristics.
- Full Sun: Some plants thrive in full sunlight, which typically means they need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Examples of Sun Lovers: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash. These sun-worshippers need ample sunlight to produce healthy foliage, flowers, and fruits.
- Partial Sun/Partial Shade: Other plants prefer a bit of relief from the intense afternoon sun and thrive in partial sun or partial shade. This usually means they need 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. Examples of Partial Lovers: lettuce, spinach, kale, and Swiss chard. These cool-season crops appreciate some protection from the hot midday sun to prevent wilting and bolting.
- Shade: Some plants are perfectly content in the shade, where they receive less than 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Examples of shade lovers: arugula, mustard greens, bok choy, cilantro, and parsley. These shade-loving plants thrive in cooler, shadier spots and may bolt or suffer from sunburn if exposed to too much sunlight.
Understanding the sunlight needs of your plants is crucial for planning your garden layout and ensuring their success. Positioning sun-loving plants where they receive ample sunlight and providing shade for those that prefer cooler conditions can help optimize growth and productivity. So, when designing your garden, consider the orientation of your beds, the presence of nearby trees or structures that may cast shadows (like us with our glass greenhouse we have to be careful the sun rays don’t burn plants next to it), and the varying sunlight patterns throughout the day to create microclimates that cater to the needs of your plants.
Watering
Now if you live in the south (like we do) then you know with our heat you want to have your garden pretty established once the heat arrives (even then it’s still difficult to keep your plants from dying) otherwise those poor little plants don’t have a chance.
When it comes to water, the key is consistency. Your garden babies need to stay hydrated, but not drowned. Water them in the morning to give them a good drink before the sun gets too intense. And avoid watering in the evening to prevent fungal diseases from taking hold.
to start or not to start
Let’s talk timing. Some veggies are eager beavers and can be started indoors before the last frost date, like tomatoes and peppers. Which can be transferred later after the last frost. Others, like carrots and lettuce, can be sown directly into the raised bed once the soil warms up a bit (which the temperature needs be warm for a bit before the ground will match the temp so don’t rush it). That’s why we always go with raised beds with a Hugelkultur layout. Speaking of raised beds, if you really want to give your plants the VIP treatment they’re the way to go. They provide excellent drainage and allow you to control the soil quality, giving your plants the best chance at success.
BFF OR FRENEMIES?
In the garden, veggies have their own BFFs and frenemies. Take tomatoes and basil—they’re BFFs, with basil keeping pests away from tomatoes. On the other hand, onions and beans are frenemies, as planting them together can stunt each other’s growth.
Here are some more examples of each:
BFFS:
Peas and Carrots: These two are like childhood friends-they grow well together and complement each other’s growth. Peas are great climbers providing a natural trellis for the carrots to grow beneath, as well as peas fix nitrogen in the soil which benefits the carrots’ growth.
Tomatoes and Basil: This classic combo isn’t just about flavor in the kitchen-it’s a match made in garden heaven. Basil repels pests that love to munch on tomatoes, like aphids and hornworms, while also enhancing their flavor.
Strawberries and Lavender: Lavender not only adds a touch of beauty and fragrance to your garden but also helps repel pests that may harm your strawberries, such as slugs and aphids. Plus, it attracts beneficial insects like bees, which are essential for pollinating your strawberries.
Cucumbers and Sweet Peppers: Cucumbers love the shade provided by taller plants like sweet peppers, while sweet peppers benefit from the cucumbers’ ability to deter pests like cucumber beetles. It’s a win-win situation for both!
And my favorite…..
Pollinating Wildflowers: Adding pollinating wildflowers like sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnias to your garden isn’t just about attracting bees and butterflies (though that’s a big part of it!) These flowers also help improve biodiversity, attract beneficial insects that prey on garden pests, and add visual interest to your garden.
FRENEMIES:
Onions and Beans: Onions release compounds that can inhibit the growth of beans, while beans can stunt the growth of onions. Planting them together can lead to reduced yields for both crops.
Potatoes and Tomatoes: Both potatoes and tomatoes are susceptible to similar pests and diseases, such as blight. Planting them next to each other can increase the risk of spreading disease and attracting pests.
Cucumbers and Aromatic Herbs: Aromatic herbs like Salem rosemary, and thyme can inhibit the growth of cucumbers by releasing compounds that suppress their growth.
Garlic and Peas: Garlic can release compounds that inhibit the growth of peas, while peas can compete with garlic for nutrients in the soil.
Broccoli and Strawberries: Broccoli plants produce compounds that can inhibit the growth of strawberries and vice versa, leading to reduced yields for both crops.
By mixing/not mixing these plants together strategically, you create a balance where each plant supports and benefits from the others. Plus, it adds a beautiful diversity to your garden that’s both functional and aesthetically pleasing or as I like to say “LOOK AT MY GARDEN ISN’T IT BEAUTIFUL!!!!!”
As for the best time of day to work in the garden? Well, that’s up to you! Some folks swear by the peacefulness of early mornings, while others prefer the coolness of the evening. Now I will say that if you live in a very humid place than it is better to water in the morning and not in the later part of the day, otherwise you take the chance their leaves not drying out in time and creating fungus or mold on your plants. Just make sure to slap on some sunscreen and hydrate (take it from a skin cancer survivor)—it’s easy to lose track of time when you’re knee-deep in dirt!
Now I know this is usually where other people will show you these beautiful pictures of these overflowing beds. Well I will show you pictures but they won’t be overflowing just yet. Let’s start with sprouts and starting to get big, then we will work our way up to flush overflowing beautiful raised beds of fruits and vegetables. What can I say, I’m a realist and trying to be patient.
So, there you have it, my friend. Your crash course in kitchen gardening 101. In the end, creating a kitchen garden is about more than just growing veggies. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just dipping your toes into the soil for the first time, I hope this guide helps you to dig deeper (pun completely on purpose).
